🔗 Share this article

When curating a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred names. But, tucked prominently among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This accolade has made the family totally surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small place achieving such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has maintained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.